Milliners of the 20th Century

Agnés (France): Noted milliner from the 1920's and 30's, Agnés moved in French art circles, and was herself a sculptress, both of which influenced her abstract styles of the day. Continued to design through the 1940's.

Hattie Carnegie (United States): An astute businesswoman, Carnegie began her career as a trimmer and salesperson in the millinery department of Macy at the age of 15. Five years later she was a partner in a millinery shop and had changed her name to Carnegie, after tycoon Andrew Carnegie. By 1940 she had expanded into other women's accessories and employed 1,000 people.

Oleg Cassini (United States): Couture designer also known for his millinery styles. He is especially known as Jackie Kennedy's favorite designer, and, indeed, is associated with her famous pillbox hats. (See Halston.)

Coco Chanel (France): Started her career in the 1920's as a Paris milliner before her couture house opened. As her hats were less extravagant than their contemporaries, they caused astonishment due to their stark simplicity--particularly her boaters. Chanel's given name was Gabrielle. See the biographical movie Chanel Solitaire for beautifully made hats by New Orleans milliner Yvonne LeFleur.

Lilly Daché (France/United States): Apprenticed under Caroline Reboux and Suzanne Talbot before immigrating to the US to begin a long and luminous career. During her heyday, in the mid- to late-'30's, she owned a 9-story building in NYC where her millinery business was housed. It was notable for, among other things, a gold fitting room for brunettes and a silver fitting room for blondes! Read her autobiography, Talking Through My Hats

Halston (United States): Halston apprenticed with Lilly Daché in the late 1950's, later designing hats in the famous millinery department at Bergdorf Goodman's in New York. Jackie Kennedy's inaugural pillbox is credited to Halston. (See Cassini.)

John-Fredrics (United States): This duo, John Piocelle and Frederic Hirst, operated their millinery house from the late 1920's to the late 1940's. Their most famous hat was the straw and green velvet bonnet Rhett Butler brings Scarlett O'Hara in "Gone With the Wind." They are credited with popularizing the WWII doll hat. The team split in 1948 and Mr. John began his very successful solo career.

Mr. John (United States): After splitting with long-time partner Frederic Hirst, John P. John, as he had dubbed himself, began an extravagant, sometimes outrageous career and lifestyle in Hollywood. His hats were very much sought after, not only because of their sophisticated style, but because of his intimate association with the glamorous stars of the silver screen.

Sally Victor (United States): Millinery buyer for Macy's in the '20's before marrying millinery wholesaler Victor Serges. Designed for Serges' until starting her own line in the mid-'30's. Her forté was producing quality hats for the masses.

Schiaparelli (France): Identified by her signature shocking pink hat boxes and cutting edge designs; heavily involved in the Parisian art world of the 1930's which influenced some of her zany hats of that period. One of the first milliners to use synthetic fabrics. At one time she employed over 2,000 people in her more than 25 showrooms.

Caroline Reboux (France): Most famous for creating the cloche in the 1920's. Reboux's clients were assured a custom fit for their cloches as she molded, tucked, and stitched felt skirting over their heads as they sat for her!